Farmers markets adjust as climate change extends growing season

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Data from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration confirms 84% of United States cities now experience at least an additional week of warmer-than-normal spring days than they did in the 1970s. That's good news for some warm weather crops, not so great for cool weather crops and areas dependent on snow-fed water. It also significantly impacts what kinds of produce farmers markets provide and when.

Across the globe, climate change is affecting water levels, insect populations and migration patterns, as well as growing conditions. Researchers with the International Food Policy Research Institute project suitable croplands for corn, potatoes, rice and wheat will shift radically within the next 25 years; in some cases, farmers will be forced to plant new crops. Closer to home, the effects are being felt in grocery stores and farmers markets. As seasons shift, farmers bring different foods to market, while grocers use industrial methods to extend seasonality.

A new Climate Central analysis finds human-caused climate change drives warmer springs in 98% of 241 major U.S. cities. Corn production is estimated to drop 24% by 2050, while wheat remains relatively steady.

Sowing the seeds

The value of the farmers market to the consumer comes in the freshness and reliability. There's no flash freezing, no ripening chemicals or artificially controlled atmospheres to interrupt the natural process. Which would you rather have, fresh pickled green beans or ones poured out of a metal can?

"Put simply, you can taste the difference," explains Bethany Harris, farm purveyor for Gjelina Group. "What we bring in from the Santa Monica Farmers' Market was harvested 24-48 hours earlier by local farms we know and trust. Not a week goes by that we don't hear a guest or team member say they used to dislike ‘xyz,' but tasting it at the market changed their perspective."

"Farmers markets offer a place that removes the barriers between the producers of good, whole foods and the people who want them," adds Paula Hamilton of Hamilton Farms Mushrooms in Corydon, Indiana. "It's a match made in heaven."

Shifting seasons

While a casual farmers market shopper may not spot the differences, seasoned regulars have noticed a shift over the years. Some items don't appear for a year or come late in the season. Or in the case of cauliflower, for your pickled cauliflower, doubly late.

"The seasons have changed rather significantly year to year. Peas and apricots are great examples of things we either see or don't based on an early or late start to spring. We saw no peas two years ago, but a decent crop last year. We also saw them twice, as Nichols Farm was able to harvest snap peas from the cover crop in late fall. I have never seen that before," points out Chef Devon Quinn, partner of Eden, a contemporary farm-to-table restaurant in Chicago's Avondale neighborhood. "Some crops shifted as many as four weeks with a warmer-than-usual spring."

"We've seen shifts in both availability and demand from local farmers. Weather variability, seasonal transitions, supply chain pressures and rising production costs can all impact consistency and crop yields," shares Executive Chef Mike Bobb at The Ballantyne in Charlotte, N.C.

"Living in our region, we experience very distinct seasonal shifts, which naturally affect what's available throughout the year. At the same time, we're incredibly fortunate that our area provides unique varieties that give us a diverse range of ingredients to work with, from spring ramps to summer peaches," Bobb adds. "Those seasonal highlights are something we truly look forward to and build around."

"In France, cooking begins with what's in season, and that philosophy still guides me today. I cook only with ingredients at peak ripeness and flavor, and weekly conversations with vendors at the farmers market shape what goes on the menu," adds Paul Magu-Lecugy, the co-owner and executive chef at Rêve Bistro. "Sometimes crops arrive earlier than expected, and other times they're delayed or less plentiful, so I don't change my menus based on the calendar - the harvest sets the timing."

Weathering the changes

Across the country, agriculturalists and farmers alike struggle to adapt to the alterations. Along with the shifts in growing seasons and harvests, they must deal with other side effects of climate change, like increased insect pressure and more or less water, as well as economic factors.

"Folks are having to reduce the acreage they farm, and water-intensive trees, once full of fruit, have been removed and used for firewood. The sobering reality is that this doesn't just impact the farmers we work with," Harris says. "It's a statewide deficit that, in turn, has nationwide repercussions, as California is responsible for over a third of the vegetables and over three-quarters of the fruit and nuts feeding the United States."

"I really think a lot depends on what the weather is like in a given year," explains Austin Jones Owner of Blooming Hill Farm. "For example, people want peas and ramps in the springtime, but if it's a cold year, sometimes these aren't available in April, you have to wait until May - and even then, peas could be longer if we don't start them in the greenhouse. Sometimes we don't have snap peas available in the field until June. I feel like there is a general disconnect there between the everyday consumer and what is actually available seasonally and locally because these ‘hyper seasonal' items are often available from commercial distributors much earlier than they are from local producers."

"Farms are seeing new insects invade their fields that they have not seen in the past - beetles, grasshoppers and scale. This has been devastating for some farms. Flatwater Farms in Michigan was my primary supply of Esmee arugula two years ago, but it was hardly able to produce any last year. They were devastated by beetles," adds Quinn. "My wife and I visited Werp Farm in Buckley, Michigan, last summer, and Tina pointed out grasshoppers that had never been seen there previously."

"Both availability and demand have changed. Farmers are adapting to climate, labor and economic pressures, which means what's available can shift week to week," points out Dr. Bill Schindler, founder of the Eat Like A Human movement. "At the same time, demand for local food has grown, but with that growth comes confusion about what ‘local' actually means. We've had to slow down, ask better questions and build deeper relationships to navigate that complexity."

Farm to table

Local restaurants that depend on farmers markets for their menu planning and providing fresh produce to their customers are also impacted by the changes. Certain vegetable dishes may not make it on the menu. Chefs adjust their ingredients, or even eliminate or delay offerings to diners to accommodate what isn't available. Communication is key.

"At any given time, a farmer's produce list gives you an accurate snapshot of the season and helps us convey that message to the diner," says Eric Leveillee, executive chef at The Rittenhouse Hotel in Philadelphia, Pa. "It's also nice to be able to communicate directly with the farmers about our wants and needs, as well as guests' wants and needs, and having an open dialogue when the product is really great or not so great ensures we can always deliver the highest quality ingredients."

"Staying in constant dialogue allows us to keep a pulse on what is happening across the state and plan when and how to adjust to the ebb and flow of availability," says Harris. "For example, when a farm in Los Olivos is gapping on lettuce, we can adjust accordingly and keep my favorite Market Greens salad on the menu year-round."

"Seasonality steers my boat. Especially if I know the farmer is very excited about a certain product, and there is enough to add a new exciting dish to my menu," adds Executive Chef Kali Kopley, co-owner of Pico Los Alamos. "For me, there's nothing worse than being at a restaurant that has a fresh product on the menu that is not in season. This tells me right away that they have large trucks pulling up and delivering food from a large food chain."

Last harvest

Climate change may feel like a distant problem that has the potential to be corrected, as more electric cars hit the roads and investors work to balance carbon footprints. But NASA scientists point out far-ranging changes are happening faster than scientists previously assessed. This generation may only be able to mitigate the long-term effects of climate change set in motion decades ago.

Clearly, the effects are already being seen on the micro scale as well as the macro. Farmers market changes are being felt, even as the markets themselves help alleviate some of the problems. Consider this a call to action. Do your part to save the earth and shop at a local farmers market if you can.

Bella Bucchiotti is a freelance writer with a passion for adventure, delicious recipes and authentic storytelling. Through xoxoBella and social media, she shares vibrant travel experiences, mouthwatering dishes and everyday moments that inspire connection.