At Paris Fashion Week, Hermes menswear has a dash of jockey-style boldness

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PARIS (AP) — Hermes illuminated a gloomy Paris afternoon with its fall men’s collection Saturday, as Veronique Nichanian turned to the racetrack for inspiration. Jockeys’ vibrant racing silks became her muse, a dynamic counterpoint to the French maison’s storied equestrian roots. “I wanted this collection to be strong and energetic,” Nichanian explained, her palette pivoting from deep browns and dark teals to flashes of tomato red and lemon yellow.

The collection radiated warmth, both in spirit and texture. Fuzzy mohair coats, velvet varsity jackets and plush sheepskin outerwear wrapped models in an embrace that seemed designed to counter winter’s chill. Layering was less pronounced this season, a deliberate move to retain sleek, streamlined silhouettes. Even gray pinstripe suits — pared back to essentials — eschewed bulk, echoing Nichanian’s vision of men unencumbered as they race through life.

Sweaters emerged as the collection’s unsung heroes. Their bold chevrons and geometric patterns were lifted directly from the vibrant stripes of racing silks, a playful nod to Palais d’Iéna’s soaring, angular architecture. A standout turtleneck, with its patchwork of triangles, rectangles, and squares in canary yellow, seemed to channel a nostalgic love for trigonometry. Elsewhere, a jacket with a shawl collar mirrored the same graphical bravado, rendered in cool tones of blue, black and white.

Though grounded in classic tailoring, the collection celebrated irreverence. Nichanian’s juxtaposition of tradition and innovation captured Hermès’ ethos with a quiet confidence. Here, functionality was imbued with a touch of whimsy, proving once again that the maison’s refinement can still surprise and delight. In a season steeped in nostalgia and geometry, Hermès delivered a collection that was, quite literally, off to the races.