At Sacai, a masterclass in wrapping and reinvention on the Paris runway

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PARIS (AP) — Chitose Abe’s latest collection for Sacai is a masterful evolution of her signature hybridization, where garments aren’t just worn —they move, morph, and envelop. The fall show on Monday embraced the art of wrapping, cocooning its protagonist in layers that exuded both protection and sensuality.

This season, Abe softened the brand’s signature deconstruction with an almost liquid elegance. Gone were the heavy-duty mashups of past seasons, replaced with sleek, elongated silhouettes that whispered rather than shouted. The designer took cues from her menswear collection, borrowing fur elements but reimagining them with a lighter touch — fur trims on jackets and tops, plush bags, even a fur T-shirt dress with a woven graphic that delivered effortless drama.

Long mermaid skirts, some repurposed and reconstructed with graphic panels, skimmed the body, paired with slouched riding boots. Sequins and feathered textures punctuated the collection, lending a new softness to Sacai’s usual edge. Ponchos, rendered in puffer, wool, and fur, wrapped around models like shields against the cold—functional yet utterly chic.

Abe’s expert play with textiles extended into her signature hybrids. Military-style jackets featured unexpected knitted panels, lending a tactile contrast to the structured tailoring. “Photo stitch” embroideries, inspired by Man Ray, adorned select pieces, drawing focus to the lips and eyes — subtle nods to beauty and intimacy in a season defined by the motion of embracing.

The Sacai woman has always been a study in contrasts, but this season, the balance tilted toward a deeper, more sensual form of protection. At 25 years in, Chitose Abe isn’t done pushing boundaries — she’s simply refining them.